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Mitate: Seeing the Portland Japanese Garden with New Eyes

March 20th, 2009

One of the great lessons to be learned from experiences with other cultures is how to see things from different perspectives. The Portland Japanese Garden can be a window onto new ideas and ways of thinking you may not have considered before. One of these ideas is an aesthetic concept called mitate 見立 (literally, to re-envision or to see anew), an idea that is demonstrated both in the practice of the tea ceremony and in the design of Japanese gardens such as ours.

“The word ‘mitate’ means ‘to see an object, not in the form that was originally intended for it, but as another thing,’ and was originally a literary term used in describing the technique of writing kanshi (Chinese poems) and Japanese waka,” according to the Omotesenke School of Tea Ceremony in Kyoto. The concept of mitate was appropriated by early masters of the Tea Ceremony who sought to offer a way to renew one’s spirit through a disciplined approach to a simple act of everyday life: the making of green tea. The masterful eye of the tea connoisseur was able to re-envision interesting found objects or objects from everyday life and integrate them gracefully into the aesthetics of Chanoyu or “hot water for tea,” the term used to describe this lesson in simplicity and awareness, a practice known commonly in English as the Tea Ceremony. Mitate objects used by the early masters of chanoyu embodied the essence of rustic, unpretentious simplicity—an explicit goal of this unique art form. Where elaborate and expensive imported ceramics were essential to earlier forms of aristocratic tea, simple objects such as crudely formed farmers’ rice bowls, for example, were discovered to be the perfect vessel with which to practice this unpretentious new style of tea. An ordinary water flask could be re-envisioned as a flower container, and the entry hatch of a ship could become the tiny nijiri-guchi doorway of a tea house.

Rene Choy

Following the lead of tea masters, Japanese gardeners began to incorporate the concept of mitate into their work through the adaptive re-use of old objects into the design of new gardens. At the Portland Japanese Garden, you will find examples of mitate throughout the Garden in such things as old roof tiles embedded in garden paths or used as decorative borders and drains, ballast stones from old ships that docked in Portland used as paths and borders throughout the Garden, granite slabs from the old Civic Auditorium that form bridges and pathways, and in the rustic millstones that are used as stepping stones in some areas of the Garden.

The Portland Japanese Garden itself is an example of adaptive re-use. The 5.5 acre Garden site was formerly the site of the old Oregon Zoo, re-envisioned as the perfect site for a Japanese garden by civic leaders and brilliantly designed by Professor Takuma Tono of Tokyo Agricultural University in the early 1960s.

Learn more about this and other fascinating Japanese perspectives on the arts with a visit and guided tour of the Portland Japanese Garden.

Category: Masters


Sho-Chiku-Bai: Celebrating the New Year in a Japanese Garden

January 9th, 2009

Wherever you travel in Japan during O-Shogatsu, the traditional celebration of New Year’s, you will find Sho-Chiku-Bai or pine, bamboo, and plum displayed at residential doorways and the entrance of temples, shrines, and public and commercial facilities alike. These displays are known as kadomatsu, or “the guardians of the gate,” with the boughs of the three plants tied together arranged in various forms. A common interpretation is that the evergreen pine tree is the symbol of constancy and longevity; bamboo represents uprightness and resilience and the plum—the first blossom of spring—symbolizes purity and provides a sense of renewal. Accordingly, these three plants also occupy prominent positions in traditional Japanese gardens.

Pine (Sho 松)

Pine trees are perhaps the first plants that come to mind when one thinks of a Japanese garden. Pine trees typically reside in the garden as a focal point or the core element around which other garden elements are arranged. A pine tree is often located at the entrance to a home to “welcome” and/or say “farewell” to its guests. The practice originated from a similar Chinese tradition. Pines common in Japanese gardens of the Pacific Northwest are Japanese black pine, Japanese red pine, and the native shore pine. All three are two-needle pines, as opposed to three-needle pines such as the Ponderosa pine or five-needled white pines for example.

Although the three varieties black, red, and shore pines differ in their growth habits, they all require the two basic maintenance techniques called “candling” and “needling,” each applied once a year in spring and fall respectively. Every spring (typically in May), a pine tree sprouts multiple new growths that looks like a “candle” and these candles are shortened and some removed to control their growth for the remaining year. Needling is literally the removal of old and unwanted needles from each and every branch, allowing sunlight to reach every layer of branches. Needling is performed in the winter, often with snow, and has an absolute deadline—New Year’s Day. The removal of stiff and pointed old needles is the most undesirable but rewarding task the pine tree is most beautiful after this work. I remember as far back as my middle school years needling for long hours on a ladder. For the gardener’s family, this activity marked the completion of one year and carried in the New Year with a complete sense of renewal. (Needling takes place at the Portland Japanese Garden during the month of January if you would like to see the process in action.)

Bamboo (Chiku 竹)

Bamboo is a common planting, but it is used more often as a material in constructing design elements such as fencing in Japanese gardens. Quite a few Japanese bamboo species grow in the Pacific Northwest, i.e. Japanese timber, arrow, and black bamboos. Timber bamboo is perhaps the most commonly used in Japanese gardens for both planting and crafts.

Nothing more than a bamboo fence gives the sense of the Japanese garden. For a Japanese gardener, replacing old bamboo fences in a garden, like pine needling, is a must-complete task before the beginning of the New Year. In the cold winter, the gardener cleans fresh-cut bamboo canes with water. Surface dirt of the bamboo canes must be removed and wiped off without scratching their surface. Scrubbing the surface with a handful of husks of rice grains accomplishes this crude yet delicate task.

In addition to the bamboo fence, part of the gardener’s year-end is to prepare a new bamboo cover for a cistern or well, a new ladle for a water basin, and new tree supports and trellises, once again, by New Year’s Day. I remember specifically that my older brother, who is also a gardener and my mentor, used to make a bamboo flower vase out of one segment of bamboo cane at the end of each year. The simple but beautifully carved flower vase with a single branch of pine, bamboo, and plum decorated the tokonoma alcove of our humble home.

Plum (Bai 梅)

Plum flowers bring the spring in Japan. The blossoming of the plum tree travels from southern to northern Japan, the journey that takes almost four months from January in Kyushu to April in Hokkaido. Japanese plum is often called the Japanese “apricot.” Both correct and incorrect: it is somewhere in between the two species. More than three hundred types of Japanese plum/apricot have been identified and catalogued today. The trees start blooming in early January in my hometown of Kyushu, and produce fruit in May–June.

Plum trees should be planted in areas where you view or walk nearby so that in spring you can enjoy the precise yet delicate details of their individual flowers and their overall fragrance.

The plum tree and its fruits in particular are said to have the ability to disinfect/purify water, and it is customary to plant the tree nearby (and its branches over) a water basin, thus symbolic of cleansing. As a young apprentice, I was told that Japanese garden wisdom says that a plum tree must be pruned to the extent that you can climb it naked without scratches. That is to keep the tree, which shoots many branches fast and in irregular directions, under control. Most garden books recommend the pruning of a plum tree right after its flowers have bloomed like any other flowering tree. Professional Japanese gardeners, however, tend to do the pruning in late fall when they can distinguish flower buds from leaf buds and selectively leave branches with flower buds for the coming year.

After all these tasks are complete and business accounts are settled, a Japanese gardener and other craftsmen alike prepare for their own New Year. The house and work space must be dusted and swept, the ground watered, equipment and tools cleaned, and pruners sharpened and oiled. All of “them” will take a break for a few days in observance of the New Year, as does the gardener himself.

Sadafumi “Sada” Uchiyama is the Garden Curator at the Portland Japanese Garden. Sada welcomes your comments and questions and may be reached at suchiyama@japanesegarden.com.

Category: Masters


Camellias

December 10th, 2008

Camellias are prominent evergreen shrubs in Japan and there are over 3000 named varieties. They can grow in sun or shade and can be used as a specimen plant, screen, or hedge.

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Three main categories include: Tsubaki ?, Camellia japonica, Sazanka ???, Camellia sasanqua, and Cha ?, Camellia sinensis. The latter is the plant that tea is derived from. The shoot tips are harvested and, depending on treatment (fermentation or curing), processed into green or black tea. The small, white, single flowers are similar to the ornamental camellias. Tsubaki and sazanka grow taller than cha, their beautiful blossoms can be single or double. Colors range from white and pink to red and all shades inbetween. They appear from fall to spring depending on variety.

Many different varieties of camellias grow in our five gardens. Their glossy leaves and bright flowers are a delight in the bare groves of deciduous trees in winter.

Category: Gardeners' Corner


Plant Care: Mums in the Garden

October 21st, 2008

Garden Mums will prosper in full sun to partial shade and prefer well-drained soils amended with organic matter. In sandy soils, a 3 to 4 inch layer of peat or compost should be worked into the top six inches of the soil. From late spring through mid-August, lightly prune stems without flower buds when they grow over six inches by snipping off the top 2 inches of growth. Prune off dead flower spikes. Some varieties of Garden Mum produce tall flower spikes which must be staked.

Planting Location

Chrysanthemums require well-drained soil and full sunlight to grow and successfully bloom. This means generally 6 hours of sunlight or more each day during the summer period. Plants grown with less light will become weak, spindly and produce few flowers. Avoid locations which are exposed to street or porch lights as this will interfere with the flowering light response to shortened days. The best location is a southern or southeastern exposure preferably against a foundation or wall where additional protection is given from frost. Improve the drainage before planting by elevating the bed with a good mix of garden loam and compost.

Soil Preparation and Planting

Garden soil which is good for growing vegetables will be satisfactory for growing mums. If particularly high in clay, additions of organic matter including peat, composted leaves, rotted manure or straw will improve the drainage and aeration. While working the planting bed, collect enough soil for a soil test and follow the recommendation for amounts of fertilizer to be added. Containerized plants should be planted at the same depth at which they were grown. Do not bury the root ball. This will promote a lack of root aeration and root rot caused by fungal pathogens. Chrysanthemums are shallow rooted and do best if planted high. This means that frequent watering may be necessary during times of high heat and little rainfall. Space plants generally about 18 inches apart. Spreading varieties may require larger spacing.

Pinching

To generate a plant full of flowers and control growth, chrysanthemums require some pinching of the tips. This encourages branching and more compact growth. It also will stimulate more flowers to be produced. Pinching is done by removal of about an inch of the tip of each branch or shoot. This is snapped out with the thumb and index finger. The first pinch should be done when the plant is 6 to 8 inches tall and repeated when new branches become 6 inches tall. A third pinch may be necessary on fast-growing varieties. If plant are not properly pinched, they will become tall, leggy, easily blown over by winds and have few flowers.

The most important thing to keep in mind when pinching the growth back is the timing of the last pinch. For early flowering varieties which bloom in mid-September, the last pinch should be around the middle of June. Varieties which flower in the early part of October should be given a last pinch on July 1. Later flowering varieties should be pinched for the last time no later than July 15. Overall, about 3 months is required between the last pinch and bloom. This is a general rule which can guide you in controlling the growth and stimulating more bloom production.

Fertilization

Most mums will require fertilization several times during the spring and summer to stimulate good growth, produce thick stems and maintain a healthy green color. Chrysanthemums are not heavy feeders like vegetables so, it is best to use a dilute fertilizer applied several times prior to bud set. Nitrogen has the greatest effect on flower production and general growth. If too much is applied, vegetative growth will be hard to control, fewer flowers will be produced and overall, flowering will occur later in the season. Before planting a bed in the spring, about 4 pounds of 5-10-5 per 100 square feet can be worked into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. This gives about one-quarter pound of nitrogen per 100 square feet and should be enough fertilizer for the season if abundant organic matter is present. A second application around August 1 may be beneficial especially on poorer soils.

Apply about 2 tablespoons of 10-6-4 or 4 tablespoons of 5-10-5 fertilizer spread over a 2 foot circle at the base of individual plants. Alternatively, broadcast about 2 pounds of 5-10-5 per 100 square feet. No more than about a tenth of a pound of nitrogen should be applied at this time.

General Care and Maintenance

During the early part of the summer, a layer of mulch material should be applied to the soil after it has warmed up as this has definite advantages to conserving and regulating moisture to these shallow-rooted plants. Besides the benefits of water control, mulch protects the bed from erosion, compaction and retards weed seed germination. Use a 2 to 3-inch layer of coarse peat, leaf mold, compost, nut hulls or lawn clippings mixed with leaves. Mulches composed of chipped wood, sawdust and straw may consume nitrogen fertilizer and rob the root system. If you use these materials as mulch, double the fertilizer applied to the bed.

If you cannot control the growth of the plants to the point that they have become tall and begin to drop over, then some support may be necessary in the form of wire frames or upright stakes. Wire peony or tomato frames work well and should be put in place before they are needed, otherwise these will be more difficult to position without damaging the plant.

After the plants have flowered, the stems should be cut off close to the ground. Leaf, flower and stem debris should be collected and composted provided they are not disease or insect infested. If that is the case, the materials should be composted separately and not used for mulching or soil improvement around the plants. Disease or insect infested materials can be buried and left out of the garden.

Often chrysanthemums listed in catalogs are noted as being winter hardy meaning that the plants will overwinter and grow the following season. The term “hardy” has been used sometimes inappropriately and gardeners should be cautious about believing that all mums are winter hardy when stated so. The fact is that many mums are not reliably hardy depending upon the climate conditions presented and even the most hardy varieties may not make it through a severe winter of subzero temperatures.

Many mum selections will survive the winter if the plants gradually become frozen and remain that way until spring. Deep snow cover will assist this and protect the frozen soil if it remains intact throughout the winter. The best defense against adverse weather conditions is to provide good drainage so that water does not accumulate around the plants and promote ice formation. After the first frost, mound a few shovels of soil forming an 8-inch layer around the base of each plant. Cut the branches back to 10 inches above the soil line and apply a 2 to 4-inch mulch layer as soon as the soil surface freezes. This means loosely layering evergreen branches, straw, or other lofty materials around the plants. Avoid using materials like leaves or peat moss which will pack down and retard emergence of leafy shoots in the spring. After the last danger of frost has past, this mulch and soil can be removed. If leafy growth has already started and the possibility of frost is still present, apply another layer of loose mulch to protect the growth.

As an alternative to overwintering plants in the bed, they can be dug and placed into cold frames to better ensure survival. This means a little more work, but for those varieties which are more tender, it is often the only way to keep plants from one year to another.

Category: Plant Care


Harvest Time in the Flat Garden

September 2nd, 2008

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In time for the Garden’s Moonviewing celebration, our gardeners have raked the familiar “rice paddy” design in the sand of the Flat Garden—this year choosing a dynamic angle that directs the eye toward the symbolic stone bridge arrangement.

photo: Jan Vreeland

Category: Uncategorized


Featured Garden: Denver Botanic Gardens

July 25th, 2008

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Denver Botanic Gardens

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Category: Featured Gardens


Hydrangea in the Summer Garden

July 20th, 2008

The Japanese have a long poetic and romantic history with hydrangea (known as ajisai 紫陽花 and gaku ajisai 額紫陽花). Nine species of hydrangea originate in Japan, and what we call “lace-cap hydrangea” is known as gaku ajisaigaku 額 meaning “a picture frame.” Lovers of water and shade, hydrangea are very adaptable to our environment and bloom in our Garden in July and August. Numerous varieties can be found dispersed as accent plants in strategic locations throughout the Garden.The specimen that overhangs the waterfall at the head of Takao’’s Pond in the Natural Garden is a particular favorite of visitors and photographers.

Category: Gardeners' Corner


Flat Garden Moss Culture

May 17th, 2008

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The presentation of the sake cup and gourd (fukube ?) have been planted with a variety of mosses. We will carefully cultivate the most vigorous forms and develop a sense of which moss serves this arrangement best. The site presents certain challenges with the amount of exposure to sunlight and reflective heat generated by the white shira kawa type sand.

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Category: Gardeners' Corner


Organic and Sustainable Horticultural Practices at the Portland Japanese Garden—Part Two

May 2nd, 2008

Irrigation throughout the Garden has been reassessed and modern, reduced-volume emitter spray heads have been installed.

A diligent fertilization regimen has been initiated to replenish soil nutrient values and microbial activity. For many years, organic material had been removed in order to cultivate moss as a preferred groundcover. This had been depleting the soil of adequate humus for sustaining plant and soil microbe health. A series of soil tests are being performed throughout the Garden to determine specific needs in each area according to the species of plants under cultivation. Soil amendments such as compost, compost tea, enriched soil, and green sand have been added to rebuild the soil. Applications of organic compounds have been incorporated to stimulate root development, vigor, and stronger immune responses in the plants. These slow-release, natural compounds will have long-lasting affects in improving overall plant and soil health.

Category: Gardeners' Corner


Organic and Sustainable Horticultural Practices at the Portland Japanese Garden—Part One

April 1st, 2008

In keeping with established procedures to reduce our impact on the environment, the Gardens and Grounds Division of the Portland Japanese Garden continue to develop sustainable practices and methods of maintenance to promote a philosophy of awareness.

Recycling and composting have long been established practices here. All of our organic debris is delivered to the Washington Park Maintenance Facility where it is composted and made available for reuse in Washington Park and the Garden. Our janitorial supplies and facilities maintenance materials are selected for eco-awareness and “green-friendly” aspects. The Garden has also been reducing energy usage and costs by converting all interior and exterior lighting to energy efficient forms.

To cut down on noise and air pollution, we have evaluated the equipment used in the Garden, including blowers, mowers, and other small engines. Where low-emission and noise-reduction models are available we have purchased them as replacements. The turf areas in the Garden and parking lot area are being converted to low-maintenance grass types and are undergoing renovation to improve drainage and reduce irrigation needs. We plan to replace the gas-powered mowers with push-reel mowers this spring.

To be continued in May

Category: Gardeners' Corner


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